One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism
by John Porter, introduced by Doug Scott CBE
A joint fundraising event for the Mount Everest Foundation, Alpine Club and Porters’ Progress UK
In the autumn of 1982, a single stone fell from high on the south face of Annapurna and struck Alex MacIntyre on the head, killing him instantly and robbing the climbing world of one of its greatest talents.
Although only twenty-eight years old, Alex was already one of the leading figures of British mountaineering’s most successful era. His ascents included hard new routes on Himalayan giants like Dhaulagiri and Changabang and a glittering record of firsts in the Alps and Andes.
Yet how Alex climbed was as important as what he climbed. He was a mountaineering prophet, sharing with a handful of contemporaries – including his climbing partner Voytek Kurtyka – the vision of a purer form of alpinism on the world’s highest peaks.
One Day As A Tiger, John Porter’s revelatory and poignant memoir of his friend Alex MacIntyre, shows mountaineering at its extraordinary best and tragic worst – and draws an unforgettable picture of a dazzling, argumentative and exuberant legend.
‘One Day As A Tiger is a brilliant read on so many levels: a vivid and perceptive biography of one of the most talented an innovative climbers of his generation, but going much further to unveil a forgotten story which encompasses the breath-taking confidence of the anarchic and dynamic climbing culture that grew up during the cold war on both sides of the Iron Curtain’. Sir Chris Bonington